Who wouldn't love fighting through such a 3D nightmare? |
The recent inception of the new Deadzone:
Infestation Kickstarter from Mantic has got me all jazzed up about that
great game again, and reminded me of this blog entry someone at Mantic asked me
to do back in November. Sadly, due to a series of personnel turnovers and a super busy publishing schedule, the blog
post got lost in the shuffle. After several recent inquiries from listeners
concerning the post, I decided to share my excitement concerning the new Kickstarter
by finally posting the blog entry myself for those who might be interested.
So, without further ado, here’s that entry, in its entirety,
with lots of pictures. Enjoy!
Sadly, I missed out on the <<first>> Deadzone Kickstarter. My first
exposure to the game was when my friend and podcasting co-host Russ picked it
up at our local store. He fell in love almost immediately. Soon after, we went
to Adepticon 2014 where Russ picked up more models and a bunch of the terrain. I did
a demo at the convention and really enjoyed it.
I went home and ordered a copy of Contagion along with an
extra set of terrain and some of the other cool components (resin cargo containers are GREAT for blinging out the game, if you can get them). I now had two full sets of
terrain, but I was not done. Another local friend, Will, had endangered his marriage by going into the first Deadzone Kickstarter whole hog, resulting in far more terrain than he had time to play
around with. He gave me a bunch of other sprues and I was off.
I almost immediately gave up. The sheer versatility of the Battlezone
Terrain was incredibly daunting. I did Google searches for other people’s
layouts. I poured over the Mantic website and blogs. But I couldn’t find any
concrete directions anywhere. I knew it COULD look great, I had seen examples,
but I didn’t know how to get there.
My first Deadzone build. Spot the mistakes? They are many... |
I dove in with Will’s sprues, building a small landing pad
connected to a watchtower by a bridge one panel wide and two panels long (Russ
had been mocking me about my Teraton not being able to cross the standard ½ width
walkways … and I had to show him, right?). In building this I made my first
mistake: I painted the tiles first, and then
put them together.
In retrospect, I don’t know what I was thinking. It was a
RIDICULOUS mistake. You’re working with hard plastic, so you paint it over and
thereby rob yourself of the best adhesive to use when making models: plastic
glue? I had been a fool; a fool with super-glue all over my fingers.
I made yet another
mistake by priming the stuff black, dry-brushing it with a bone color as a
pre-shaded base (my usual technique), and then dry-brushing it again with the
shade of blue I was looking for (and then, of course, bringing up further
layers one or two times for shading). It took a LOT of time to do all that, and
I was not super excited about the results.
My next mistake: I had only played a few short games, so
didn’t know how best to maximize what I was building. I used the 45 degree tilted
paneling to border the landing pad. I also wanted to have some cover
underneath, so I used four solid walls to build a pedestal. Sadly, this then
meant that the amazing-looking pillars that come with the landing pad would not touch the ground. I had to
cannibalize some other terrain to add little pads for each pillar so it would
touch the ground and keep the consistent height of the Battlezone system. It
looked cool, but in game play, the 45 degree panels mean that you’ve basically
got 9 squares of elevation that are closed off from the rest of the board. You
can’t place bridges on them, so you’ve locking out a lot of cool options for
elevated cross-board maneuvering. Also, the build was so big it dominated the
board, making itself the centerpiece of any setup that included it.
So, lessons from my first attempt: Build FIRST, with plastic glue.
Paint AFTER, priming in your main color and then just doing a quick dry-brush
to pick out the amazing details already included in the pieces. And most
importantly: fight the urge to constantly close off your assembly options for rigid aesthetic value: You want to be
able to create all sorts of scenes, territory, and terrain. In most (but not all) instances, flat tops are your
friends.
My second attempt (in the center). More modular and uniform |
Next I needed to decide what to do with my two sets of
standard terrain (and the various bits and pieces left over from Will’s gift).
I decided, rather than make buildings which I REALLY wanted to do, I would design
around cubes, for maximum versatility with Deadzone. I built 6 one cube elements, 2 two cube elements, and 2 three
cube elements. I also built a platform/bridge 1 cube by 3 cubes, to give me
some elevation. This would allow me to put these pieces together, side by side
and/or on top of each other, in any number of ways. And with flat tops, I could
connect them with the various 1 and 2 cube-length bridges I had made.
Another Lesson Learned: when stacked upon one another, my cubes nest nicely, but there is nothing stopping them from sliding off if someone bumps the table (and sometimes it takes only the slightest bump). I need to add something for the cubes to rest upon. I learned to put right angle connectors along the inner walls of the cubes, and then clip off most of the downward facing prongs, so that they could sit into the recesses of cubes beneath them, but would be flush when placed directly upon the mat.
I decided I liked the blue, but would rather go with a more
uniform look for the rest of the table. I primed with standard retail light
gray spray primer, and then highlighted with two coats of lighter gray craft
paint. I pick out little details with a couple other colors to make the items
pop, but I didn’t go crazy, letting the detail of the pieces speak for itself.
I also decided I wanted things to look old and worn, so I
used sea sponge for the first time, going for a rusty look. I used sea sponge
to apply a stippled dark brown in patterns that made sense to me from a quick
perusal of Google images of rusty industrial machinery. I then went over the
brown areas with a great textured orange technical paint from another
manufacturer. I finally used a fresh-blood technical paint to add splashes of
gore, which I’m not entirely sold on, but they do blend in well with the
Deadzone game mat.
But now I was struggling under something I saw mentioned
more and more online, the “Paintball Field” effect of Deadzone terrain. I
love building tables that look real: you can see why things are the way
they are and you can imagine fighting over realistic locations, real or
imaginary. But I was limited in my Deadzone builds by these undamaged cubes,
because if I put them back to back to make cool buildings, you wouldn't be able
to get your models into them. I was left with some very cool looking terrain,
but wanting something more.
More lessons learned: using the X-brace panel more liberally
can give you a very cool open-concept industrial feel that breaks up the solid
walls enough to mostly dispel the paintball field impression … but mine were
all used up to make bridge/platform pieces and watchtowers.
I had known there were ruin sprues coming, of course, and I
knew that with these I could make awesome blown-out buildings that would look
real AND allow for models to be placed within them. I could not wait for the
release in the US, so I jumped on the Ruined Quadrant pre-order, and I never looked
back.
The ruined fortress in two halves |
The full fortress |
With the Ruined Quadrant I built a large fortress, four
cubes by three. I built it in two halves, and made add-ons with the ruin sprues
that I painted to match the fortress. I can field it as a whole fortress or two
ruined fortresses separated by any amount of space on the board. With the
fortress, I tried something I had always wanted to: I first painted the pieces
to match everything else. Then I used masking tape to cover the entire fortress
except a stripe running all around the outer wall. I used regular retail spray
paint to add a bold brick-red detail stripe around the entire thing, as well as
the barricades I had built to match (no matter what I do, I'm still terrified of delving into the use of an airbrush). I gave the stripe a quick dry-brush with
lighter reds, removed the tape, and LOVED the result.
The full standard collection |
I do love me my platforms! |
Then I went to town on my ruins. Again, I built in single
layers so I could stack in a variety of different ways, this time building one
3x3 ruin, three 2x2 ruins, and several 1 cube ruins. I built a large 3x3
platform with two angled corners, another 1x3 bridge/platform, and a 1x2
platform to give myself even more height options (keep in mind, thought, that in Deadzone, this makes those stair and ladder bits even more important). This is where I figured out how to place the 90 degree connectors
facing inwards, with the bottom prong mostly snipped off, along the bottoms of
my pieces so they would stack more easily and stay put, but would also sit
flush on the mat if I wanted to use them as a bottom level.
The ruins, with the platform in the upper right |
I painted these pieces up the same as the non-ruined
elements, but dry-brushed blast damage with black, radiating outward from the
damage points, and then lightly dry-brushed gun metal over the wrecked pieces
(paying extra attention to the rebar) to pick out the awesome detail of the
destruction.
Rubble/half wall bits |
Rubble w/half wall and non-ruined cube |
Makes ruined cube! |
Another cool trick I stumbled upon: pair the half-rubble
piles, meant to sit flush against walls, together with a single ruined wall
piece on only one side. With these I can make non-ruined elements ruins simply
by butting them up against any non-ruined wall.
The two platforms used in a standard layout |
I broke my own new rules only twice: I built two ruined landing
platform pieces, each two cubes high. I COULD have made the landing pad parts
separate, but I really wanted to give them a ruined appearance, and so needed
to build them up to provide the support necessary to make them sturdy enough to
use in the game.
In the end, I’ve had a BLAST making, painting, and playing
on this great terrain. It goes together like a dream, paints up fast and beautifully,
and looks phenomenal on the table or the Deadzone mat. I’ve got more than
enough to fill 3 mats to ridiculous density already, and I can’t wait to build
more!
The Rebs scout out the new territory |
Summary:
·
Put your pieces together BEFORE you glue.
·
Spray a colored basecoat and then dry-brush for
detail.
·
Build in single layers with an eye to combining,
stacking, and bridge access.
o Don’t
forget the 90 degree connectors along the bottom to keep the upper levels
steady.
·
Include details like hazard stripes, rust, etc.
to really make these great kits pop!
·
Don’t let anything go to waste: make scatter
terrain with anything you have left over!
·
The stairways that come with the Landing Pad are
AWESOME for adding realism and further cover. Beg, borrow, or steal as many as
you can get.
Kit List:
·
1 Deadzone: Contagion box
·
1 Scenery Upgrade Pack
·
1 Ruined Quadrant
·
A random bunch of sprues that at my best guess
would add up to:
o
1 Landing Pad
o
1 Watch Tower
·
I also got a couple extra sprues from Mantic CS
when I pre-ordered my Ruined Quadrant.
Craig is a teacher,
author, and co-host of the general gaming podcast The D6 Generation, universally acclaimed as Not-Too-Horrible. His latest novel, Bastion,
is available now through Winged Hussar Publishing, as well as online at Amazon
and Barnes and Noble. You can also follow his exploits on twitter: @d6gcraig.